The rest of Sunday was lovely; we went to the Selfoss community center, which was swarming with kids and pale-skinned Icelanders...

It's nearing midnight and I'm sitting in the quiet kitchen, jazz on my laptop, water cascading off the roof; I can see boughs of trees...

We scour our AllTrails maps for days, looking for hiking trails with water and cooler temps to escape the dry scorching sun. The state...